Di Filippo · Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG · 2018

Montefalco Sagrantino 2018 DOCG

6,000 Bottles/yr Biodynamic Woman-Led Jancis Robinson MW
Producer Di Filippo
Appellation Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
Vintage 2018
Grape 100% Sagrantino
Estate 30 hectares, Cannara, Province of Perugia
Soils Clayey-calcareous, hilly terrain
Training Cordone speronato (spur cordon)
Plant Density 5,000 vines/hectare
Farming ICEA organic since 1994; DIBIUM biodynamic since 2008
Maceration Prolonged traditional maceration
Oak Aging 18–24 months in barriques and tonneaux
Total Aging 33 months minimum (DOCG regulation)
Production 6,000 bottles/year (~500 cases)
Drinking Window 2028–2030 approachable; 2030–2045 peak
89 Falstaff
89 Wine-Searcher
95 JF / 2011

Falstaff 89 and Wine-Searcher aggregate 89 confirmed for the 2018 vintage. JF 95 (John Fodera, Tuscan Vines) confirmed on the 2011 vintage. The estate's documented ceiling.

A wine that requires patience and rewards it at a scale few Italian reds can match. The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG from Di Filippo is produced from 100% Sagrantino grown on clayey-calcareous soils in Cannara. The same biodynamic estate where draught horses have ploughed select parcels since 2009 and geese manage the soil between the vines.

The 2018 is not the broadest vintage for Montefalco Sagrantino, spring frosts reduced yields across Umbria, and the season produced wines that trade power for precision. What arrived in the cellar from the September harvest was dry, perfectly healthy fruit with concentrated alcohol and, in the words of those who assessed it, wines that were "not as full-bodied as previous warmer vintages but really elegant and complex". The 2018 being "among the splendid exceptions" to a vintage that challenged many producers.

That elegance is not a weakness. For Sagrantino, a grape that can otherwise present as a wall of tannin in its youth, an elegant vintage is a doorway in. The 2018 offers aromatic precision before it offers heft, and it still has the structural bones to cellar for two more decades.

Falstaff, 2018 vintage

"Dark, rich ruby red; fine and restrained, delicate mint, dark berries; fruity, slightly balsamic, very marked by tannin, light blood orange; very drying finish."

Sagrantino: Italy's Most Tannic Variety

Sagrantino is indigenous to the area around Montefalco in Umbria, and it holds a record that no other commercial grape has surpassed: the highest polyphenol content of any variety tested among the 25 most popular global varieties. It contains twice the polyphenols of Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo. It registers the highest anthocyanin content of all tested varieties, which accounts for the wine's characteristic deep ruby-violet color and notable antioxidant properties that researchers have increasingly studied.

The earliest documented reference to Sagrantino dates to 1598, when jurist Bartolomeo Nuti cited sagrantino grapes in red wine production in the region. The name almost certainly derives from sagra (feast) or sacrestia (sacristy), historical evidence that the grape's extraordinary tannin and polyphenol load preserved it as communion wine without spoilage in an era before refrigeration or additives. A liturgical grape, aged in the cellar of the church.

The modern appellation's history is one of revival. DOC status came in 1979; DOCG in 1992, making it one of Italy's earlier red wine DOCGs. The renaissance driven by producer Arnaldo Caprai from the late 1970s onward transformed the appellation from a local curiosity to an internationally recognized name. By 2023, the appellation had grown from under a dozen producers farming approximately 200 acres to 70 commercial wineries farming 1,000 acres.

1598
First Documented Reference
Polyphenols vs. Cabernet Sauvignon
#1
Tannin Among 25 Top Varieties
1992
DOCG Designation

Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG: What the Regulations Demand

The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG encompasses the medieval hilltop town of Montefalco, known as il balcone dell'Umbria, the balcony of Umbria, and four surrounding communes: Bevagna, Gualdo Cattaneo, Giano dell'Umbria, and Castel Ritaldi, all in the Province of Perugia. Altitudes range from 220 to 472 meters, with continental climate characteristics: hot, dry summers; cold winters; significant diurnal temperature swings during ripening that preserve the acidity that will balance all those tannins.

The regulations are among the strictest for any Italian red wine appellation. The dry (secco) Sagrantino must be 100% Sagrantino. No blending of other varieties is permitted. Minimum total aging is 33 months post-vintage, of which at least 12 months must be in oak barrel and at least 4 months in bottle. Maximum grape yield is 8 tons per hectare. Di Filippo's yields of 4,000–5,000 kg/hectare sit well within that maximum, a quality-forward choice that prioritizes concentration over volume.

The practical result of 33 months minimum aging is that the 2018 was released no earlier than 2021–2022. The wine your guests are drinking today has been in existence for years before it reached a glass.

Grape 100% Sagrantino (no blending permitted)
Min. Total Aging 33 months post-vintage
Min. Oak 12 months in barrel
Min. Bottle 4 months
Max. Yield 8 tons/hectare
Di Filippo Yield 4,000–5,000 kg/ha
Di Filippo Oak 18–24 months (barriques and tonneaux)
Zone Montefalco + Bevagna, Gualdo Cattaneo, Giano dell'Umbria, Castel Ritaldi

2018: Elegance from Adversity

The 2018 growing season in Umbria opened with spring frosts that reduced yields below the long-term average. What followed was a summer of hot, dry July and August conditions offset by beneficial rains in June and July that supported even ripening across the zone. The critical period was September and October: an absence of precipitation during the harvest window, excellent diurnal temperature variation, summer-warm days, fresh breezy nights. That drove aromatic precision and maintained acidity as the Sagrantino clusters reached full phenolic maturity.

Harvest for Sagrantino concluded around October 9th. The fruit arriving at the cellar was dry, perfectly healthy, with good alcohol concentration and a character that observers described as "elegant and complex" rather than massive. In a year when some producers struggled, Di Filippo produced one of those "splendid exceptions."

For sommeliers and buyers, the 2018 is a Sagrantino for the guest who wants to understand the variety on approachable terms: more aromatic precision up front, less sheer extraction than a hot-year bottling, still carrying the structural framework that demands cellaring. The 2015 and 2016 are the benchmark recent "Excellent" vintages for the appellation; 2018 is the elegant, complex year.

Drinking Window
2028–2045

2018 Vintage Character

"Below-average yields from spring frost. September–October: optimal harvest conditions. No precipitation, excellent diurnal variation, elegant and complex fruit. Among the splendid exceptions of a challenging vintage."

Reference. JF 95 (2011 vintage, confirmed)

"Deep ruby, violet rim; smoky cherry, black plum, caramel, menthol; black fruits, cracked pepper, grilled toast, spices; long, ripe, polished."
— John Fodera, Tuscan Vines (2011 vintage)

Food Pairings

Sagrantino's massive polyphenol load requires fat and protein to tame. Delicate preparations are overwhelmed. The grape is historically paired with the peasant foods of Umbria's interior, game, roasted meats, aged hard cheeses, and those combinations remain the standard because they work structurally: fat and protein bind the tannins, the wine's dark fruit and mineral spine cut through richness.

Cinghiale. Umbrian wild boar braised or stewed, is the canonical match. It has been the pairing for this grape since before the DOCG existed. Extend that logic to any preparation with comparable fat content and umami depth.

  • Wild boar (cinghiale), braised or stewed, the classic Umbrian match
  • Roast pork stuffed with sausage and fontina
  • Game birds: pheasant, guinea fowl, quail in agro-dolce
  • Venison, medallions, ragù, or braised shank
  • Aged Pecorino Romano or aged Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Porcini and truffle-based pasta preparations
  • Dark chocolate, 70%+ cacao

A Cellar Wine

The 2018 Di Filippo Sagrantino is a candidate for 15 to 20 years of additional development from release. The tannin structure, twice the polyphenol content of Cabernet Sauvignon, is not a defect to be managed; it is the wine's architecture. Given time, it integrates into something complex, layered, and long. The 2028–2030 window represents an approach phase. Peak drinking runs through 2045.

Decanting is mandatory for near-term service. Two to three hours minimum for current vintages. Pour at 18°C and revisit the glass across the meal. It will evolve continuously.

Approachable from
2028–2030
Peak drinking
2030–2045

This comes from a 30-hectare estate in Cannara, Umbria, where Roberto Di Filippo, who Italian journalists call l'enologo horse whisperer, ploughs his vineyards with draught horses and uses geese to clean and fertilize the soil. The estate has been certified organic since 1994, biodynamic since 2008. Emma Di Filippo runs it today alongside her two sons. They produce 6,000 bottles of this wine per year.

Sagrantino is Italy's most tannic grape. Not anecdotally, measurably. It contains more polyphenols than any other major variety, twice the tannin of Cabernet Sauvignon. That's why monks used it as communion wine for centuries: the polyphenols prevented spoilage. The earliest written record is 1598. The name probably comes from sagra, feast, or sacrestia. A liturgical grape.

The 2018 is an elegant, precise vintage for the appellation, those diurnal temperature shifts in September gave beautiful aromatic structure without losing the framework. This wine needs time; it's showing beautifully now with a long decant, and it will still be drinking perfectly in 2040.

Trade Materials

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